Monthly Archives: January 2016

Arriving in Cuba

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Tomorrow I arrive in Cuba, at Terminal 3 of the José Martí International Airport in Havana. It´s the eighth time, and each time I´m filled with a mixture of nervous anticipation, fear that something unexpected will go wrong and excitement. It´s another world!

Usually, flying from Australia I pass through US Customs in Los Angeles, and change flights for Mexico City, and from there to Havana. This time, for something different, I am in Panama City, and leave from here at 9.15 in the morning.

I first came to Cuba in 2002, not so long after the breakup of the Soviet Union in 1991 and the worst of the “Special Period” that followed, when Cuba´s economy collapsed without Soviet support, and oil became desperately short. One of the reasons for going then, was a fear that this little Caribbean Island that had resisted bullying and terrorism from its northern neighbour for so long, would inevitably succumb, and become another Coca Cola colony of the USA, like Puerto Rico. While it would gain the benefits of capitalism, it would be at risk of losing some of the unique and precious things that distinguish it from other latin countries, including its vibrant culture and its public health and education systems.

I have seen many changes since 2002, while many things have stayed the same. With the thawing of relationships with the USA, there are big challenges for the Cuban government. Within months of the meeting of Presidents Obama and Raul Castro in December 2014, the numbers of US tourists to Cuba soared, bringing much needed money into the economy.

When nobody had anything much and there was an identifiable external threat, the Cuban people put up with their plight, banded together and put the country first. If the influx of tourists and money, means that some Cubans get relatively rich, while most others continue to struggle, the situation may change.

I will report on the changes that are occurring, from the perspective of a “yuma” (white western foreigner) and from the perspectives of Cuban friends while I spend the next two months in Cuba.

Despite the easing of tensions with the USA, the US economic blockade (embargo) remains in place – and could only be removed with the support of the Republican controlled US Congress. For 23 years, the United Nations General Assembly has voted overwhelmingly to end the blockade, with 188 nations including Australia and Britain, now demanding that it be removed, and only the USA and Israel supporting the crippling sanctions.

Cuba claims that the blockade has cost it more than $1,000 billion, while the USA disingenuously alleges that Cuba´s economic problems are due its own mismanagement. Despite the opening of embassies in each other´s country this year, the blockade has been tightened in recent years, and is unchanged. Severe penalties prevent industries in countries that oppose the blockade doing business with Cuba, such as Australian banks. (https://www.facebook.com/UnfairANZSanctionsHurtCubans/).

The author, in the Plaza de Armas, Old Havana (photo: Benjamin D´Emden)

The author, in the Plaza de Armas, Old Havana (photo: Benjamin D´Emden)

Tomorrow, as I join the throng of “yumas” on their way to Cuba, I can reflect on others who have been drawn to the island before me. In recent times, famous personalities like Beyoncé, Ry Cooder, Wynton Marsalis, Juanes,  Jack Nicholson, Kevin Spacey, Naomi Campbell, Jodie Foster, the queen of Spain, and Spanish actor Javier Bardem, have been. In 1987, Australian group Air Supply gave a massive concert, and are still remembered fondly. Perhaps the most famous Cuba-phile was Ernest Hemingway, who lived there from 1939 to 1960, and his home, Finca Vigia, is a Hemingway Museum (also, there are so many places in Old Havana that claim that “Hemingway drank here”, that one great little restaurant, El Chanchullero, has a sign saying that “Hemingway never came here”).  Long before them, a gay Prussian aristocratic scientist, the father of geography, left a lasting impression. Baron Alexander von Humbolt visited Cuba in 1800 and again in 1804, and has been called the second discoverer of Cuba for his geographical studies. He is remembered by a street in Vedado, curiously where a smart, modern gay venue has opened “Humboldt 54”, and his statue and a museum are to be found in Old Havana. I´m keen to visit them.

So you´re off to Cuba (travel)

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Most tourists to Cuba fly directly from European airports or from Canada. From Australia, it is easy with various options. The cheapest route from Melbourne or Sydney is usually direct to Los Angeles (or Houston), then change for a flight to Mexico City, and then from there to Havana. It is also possible to fly from Australia via New Zealand to Santiago de Chile, and then change for a flight to Havana; or fly to Vancouver and Toronto in Canada, then direct to Cuba. You can book on line yourself, looking for the best available fair on sites such as www.webjet.com.au/flights/; www.farecompare.com/‎; www.cheapflights.com.au and many others. I recommend getting an idea of what you might need to pay for a return flight, and then go to a travel agent like Flight Centre (www.flightcentre.com.au/) and see their best offer.

Travel insurance is necessary to enter Cuba and most travel agents will organise that for you if you want. It is worth considering what your maximum excess payment will be… as having a higher excess reduces the cost of insurance dramatically. Platinum VISA card holders are now offered free travel insurance.

Visas are needed to pass through the USA and Mexico. If you are Australian, you can apply on-line for a “visa waiver” at the US government ESTA site https://esta.cbp.dhs.gov/. The visa waiver costs only $US14 and lasts two years and covers Canada, USA and Mexico. Beware however, there are scams in operation that look like the official site, but charge you $US87 for processing your application.

Your visa to enter Cuba can be obtained from the Cuban consulate in Canberra for $60 in person or $110 by mail, http://www.cubadiplomatica.cu, but it is easier to just buy a visa at the airport in Mexico City en route to Havana ($US50). It is quick, easy and reliable.

Next consider your health! It may be quickest and easiest to see a specialist “travel doctor” and make sure you have the necessary vaccinations. Cuba is a healthy destination, but it is good to use roll-on insect repellent against mosquito born infections, like dengue fever (especially in eastern Cuba). Vaccination is recommended against hepatitis A and B, typhoid, diphtheria and tetanus – measles and influenza while you are at it! You can find what you need to know in the Australian Government “Immunization Handbook”, health.gov.au.

The flight from Australia is long. Wear comfortable clothing. To avoid deep vein thrombosis, flex your feet and leg muscles while sitting for long periods, and every hour or so, get up and walk around the cabin and drink water. Water is provided and can be found at the rear of the aircraft, usually with fruit and nibbles.

So you´re off to Cuba? (money)

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If you are planning to go to Cuba, and I recommend it, what sorts of things do you need to think about? The situation changes continually but this advice is current and appropriate early in 2016.

US dollars and US credit cards cannot be used in Cuba, but those from other countries are welcome. It is useful to have a range of options for accessing money including some cash, a debit card and credit card from your bank,  and a travel card (another form of debit card). The latter cannot be used in Cuba (as it does not have the owner´s name on it) but can be useful elsewhere, like in Mexico or Panama on the way. I suggest having the cash in euros, as these are easily changed throughout Cuba, but put US dollars on the travel card – because this will only be useful in Mexico or other Latin American countries. You can change some cash or use your debit card on arrival at the airport, and receive CUCs (“divisa”, Cuban convertible currency, pegged to the US dollar). If withdrawing from a bank, you need to present your passport with your debit or credit card (note: there are less charges to pay at home if you use your debit card). However, there are many ATMs around Havana and other main cities where you just use your card and your PIN number. You may also decide to have another backup by carrying some traveller´s cheques in euros… but I have stopped doing that, as it has never been necessary. Where you see the sign “CADECA” you can change you CUCs into moneda nacional. One CUC (=one US dollar) equals 25 Cuban pesos moneda nacional. I recommend keeping both currencies on you – because you can use the moneda nacional to go to a movie (2 pesos mn) or catch a “maquina” , old US car acting as a taxi-bus (for 10 pesos mn); and fresh bread rolls (10 for 10 pesos mn).

In many, or most situations, you will have to use CUCs. For example a coffee or mojito at the Hotel Nacional will cost you about 3 or 4 CUC, and a can of beer from the supermarket will cost 1 CUC. A nice bottle of Havana Club rum from the liquor store will cost about 7 CUC, while a bottle of Spanish red wine will cost about 10 CUC. Entry to the new FAC (Cuban Art Factory) will cost 2 CUC. The taxi from the airport to Havana costs 25 CUC.

Increasingly the government is trying to bring the two currencies together and at many supermarkets you can pay in either “divisa” or “moneda nacional”.

One last warning for the unsuspecting – a peso refers to moneda nacional, but Cubans also call one CUC, a peso. So when you ask for a beer and are told “one peso” , you have to know that is too cheap to be in moneda nacional, it means one CUC. And while on beer, there are two main brands of Cuban beer, Cristal and Bucanero, both excellent and costing the same. There are also other brands of lesser quality beer, but quite good to drink which cost less and are found in local Cuban bars rather than upmarket tourist bars – such as Mayabe and Hatuey. You will also find imported beers such as Corona and Heinekens.

 

The Challenge of Cuba

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Cuba is a complex, exciting place and contrary to some observers, Cubans are eager to express their opinions about Cuba and the Cuban situation – with trusted friends. English language information is available on the government site (www.havanatimes.org/) and the famous “dissident” journalist Yoani Sanchez writes her blog called Generation Y for a wide audience (generacionyen.wordpress.com ). The Havana Times describes itself as “open-minded writing from Cuba” and gives its own version of Cuban reality (http://www.havanatimes.org/). Coming to understand Cuba better demands some knowledge of the diverse perspectives within Cuba, let alone outside. For starters, here is what Osmel Ramirez Alvarez wrote last week in Havana Times (www.havanatimes.org/?p=116024 ):

The Challenge of Understanding Cuba

Osmel Ramirez Alvarez

HAVANA TIMES — Speaking about Cuba can stir up controversy. It is a truly unique country, surrounded by many myths and filled with antagonistic ideologies, natural beauty, overwhelming cultures and unparalleled contradictions. It is a country that is at once highly nationalistic and divided, where we come across extreme poverty and invaluable resources, revolutionaries who flee from their revolution, badly-paid talent and values lost in the daily struggle for survival.

This is a country like no other. Not even we Cubans understand Cuba so, how could we expect a foreigner to quickly grasp our situation? It would be a veritable feat to do so. However, despite all this, we are an interesting people with a beautiful country.

Our country faces two major challenges: first, consolidating a social model that is genuinely fair, democratic and inclusive, and, second, defining an economic development strategy that will afford us the social wellbeing we need. All other needs or national aspirations are subordinate or dependent on these two things.

The revolution came to power 56 years ago, and it did so, precisely, to overcome these problems. It’s clear it hasn’t accomplished it. The Cold War and ideological extremism imposed certain rigid formulas on us, the ones that have brought us to this point: an economically devastated country and the indefinite rule of a revolutionary government that isn’t steered by the people’s votes.

We’ve grown stagnant and, in Cuba, everyone repeats the same phrases again and again: “No one can fix this, no one can topple this.”

Why so much pessimism? The answer is both simple and complicated, so it’s best to try and illustrate it: imagine an elderly person whose boss treats them like a child. This boss doesn’t let this person make any decisions and forced them to wear an uncomfortable, out-of-style suit that does not fit them. Worse still, this boss won’t let the person quit his/her job, because, in the past, having earned their trust, they had to sign a document that gave the boss such power, disguised as good intentions. Our people are that poor fellow and the leadership of the revolution is their capricious supervisor. The tight-fitting suit is orthodox socialism and the fateful document the Constitution of 1976.

Milk for children. Photo: Juan Suarez

Faced with this state of affairs, we have only two options: to resign ourselves to it or try and fix it. Let us start with a very basic analysis of the situation. We consider that it is both unjust and illegal to violate a person’s human rights, so, how serious is the offense when an entire people is involved? A person’s born rights can be trampled on, but not usurped, not even through their consent. They cannot be transferred to others. This is a very old battle and humanity had already won it through its bourgeois revolutions. How is it that socialists, who seek to move beyond capitalism, should end up trampling on such basic rights?

In our country, the people constitute the sovereign only by natural and nominal right, because the constitution says so. But the laws that are practically applied in the country transfer this sovereignty to the Communist Party. The people do not choose anyone with real power, nor do they advance their own candidates – they merely approve the only options given them by commissions controlled by the Party, electing deputies who also only approve the sole options given them.

Everything has been designed so that there’s no true margin of choice and a small group will continue to make decisions. Only the neighborhood representative is directly elected by the people. “Incidentally,” it is the lowest position, and such representatives have no real power to decide or utilize any resources whatsoever. The further removed from the popular vote that Cuban politicians are, the more power they have and the more resources they control – a sign, as I see it, of how disrespectful towards the people this system is.

The Cuban Communist Party has proclaimed itself the eternal mentor of the Cuban people, but this is an illicit title, even if it is backed by existing laws, as this encroaches upon a natural right: the sovereignty of the people. The most a party can legally and morally aspire to is to be a “representative” of the people. To be anything more than that is a human rights violation.

Putting out the wash to dry. Photo: Juan Suarez

There is no one conception of socialism out there. There are different forms of socialism and only radical socialists deny the people the right to representative democracy. Who could deny that socialism seeks social justice? I believe most Cubans on the island, be it because of habit or wisdom, feel more comfortable with the idea of continuing to espouse a form of socialism than to return to a form of bourgeois-styled representative democracy.

Here, radical socialism manages to hold on to power thanks to the strict social control afforded by the old Soviet model, and it benefits no other class other than the political class that wields power. The rest of the people are stifled by it. Popular wisdom has baptized this situation as the “internal blockade”, which is ten times worse than the US blockade and Obama can do nothing to lift it.

A moderate form of socialism, respectful of all human rights, espousing a democratic political formula, protective of the rights of social majorities, promoting non-predatory forms of capitalist development, allowing for national reconciliation and opening the doors of the nation to Cubans abroad, would, however, be more than welcome. I am not talking about utopia, but about something objective. Anything else would be dangerously violent.

We can’t continue to move down a road beset by tension and extremism. It doesn’t matter if one is a liberal, a centrist or socialist, we need only respect one another and live in peace. Many Cubans probably have more than enough reasons to be wary of the word “socialism.” Others are afraid to even think about a multi-party system and free enterprise. But the country belongs to everyone, it needs to find a new way and the will of the majority must be respected. The new Cuba must be “for everyone and for everyone’s benefit.” That is precisely what Cuba needs.